Josh-the-Locksmith
25 Years Experience
Austin, TX
Male, 46
I've been a locksmith since 1998. I did automotive residential & commercial work from 1998 to 2008. From 2008 to 2018, I did some residential, but mostly commercial work. I have been project managing & estimating since 2018. I used to locksmith in the Chicago area, now the Austin area.
If it’s the correct clover cam, it shouldn’t be slipping. It’s possible something is wrong with the lock body. Narrow down your problem. Take the cylinder out and turn the key all the way around. Is anything loose? Screws on the back tight? Now stick your finger into the lock body and try to simulate the motion of the cylinder cam. Does everything feel fluid? Really loose? Broken? Putting grease on the cam won’t help or hurt. You’re better off squirting a good lube into the mortise body and spray it around a bit. I love Super Lube. Some local shops might carry it. Even some bike stores. Amazon of course. Something that will stick & not dry up.
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Sorry nope, never heard the name Kordex before.
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Wow! Can’t say I have! ????
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I would just call that the original key, and the other the copy. Or maybe the depth key?
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Birthday Party Clown
OK seriously, how DOES the clown car thing work?
Police Officer
Have you ever been shot or seriously injured on the job?
Meter Maid
Is it tough to have a job that consists exclusively of ruining peoples' days?
Contact Brinks for that key, or call your local locksmith. I looked up that code, & it didn’t bring up anything. If you just need a key copied, they might be able to do that in house; if not, they can probably order you a key.
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You can drive it to a locksmith shop and they might be able to rekey them to match. Or they can make a key to the doors and trunk. With newer cars, it’s very common that the doors and truck locks quit working because people only use remotes to open them. So the locks corrode and seize up. If that is a possibility with you, you can try squirting some WD-40 or a penatrant like PB Blaster, made for loosening rusted nuts. Let it sit 30 min, then run your key in and out a bunch to loosen it up. Then try turning it. I’ve seen that work a lot.
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Sounds like you are describing the most common deadbolt that people put on their houses and retail storefronts. One problem I see with that is there is what may be more secure against a physical attack may not comply with your local fire code. Being a classroom you have to comply with a code that requires 1 motion for your students to get out in a fire. Such as a lever handle, you just turn and walk out. If you had a separate deadbolt on the door, it would require knowledge of the deadbolt being locked & having to turn the lever. Makes a big difference when the room is filled with smoke in a panic situation.
I think in an active shooter situation, a locked lever handle is going to stop someone unless they’re willing to shoot their way through, and then you have a different problem. They’re not going to take the time to get tools out and pry the door open.
To me the most common sense solution is a lever that can be locked or unlocked with a key from both sides. So a teacher can lock the EXTERIOR lever of the classroom from the inside or the outside with a KEY. Yet when the inside lever is turned, people can still escape if they had to whether it had been locked or not. It would also allow emergency responders to get into the room with a master key. That function does exist by the way. It carries different names depending on the manufacturer. The more common lever style is a thumb turn on the inside, keyed on the outside. The problem with that is it allows a student to lock the door, which in normal day-to-day operation could be a problem with students messing with it, potentially locking a teacher out of their own classroom.
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